One of our loyal followers on twitter had a question about house training her dog – and we responded, check out the article below…

Q. @a_animalclinic we have a 16 month old basset hound and he STILL is having problems w/ house training! Ugh! Help plz! I’m at a loss…

A. I’d love to answer this for you @di_nichon. In America, well over 90% of our pets live inside and you are going to have to go through the housebreaking process with your Basset Hound if you want to live a “poop & pee free” lifestyle with your puppy. It does not have to take a long time – that’s if you commit to being totally engaged during the process – and you’ll see that the time you invest will shorten the time span it takes to train him/her.

Housetraining Rules to Play by:

1. is the Most Important Rule: If you don’t catch him doing it – then don’t punish him for it! If you don’t catch him in the act, he won’t have the slightest idea of what the scolding is for especially if he did it more than 45 seconds ago. Here’s a good relation: Puppies are like our teenagers. Unless an event was really fun, and a repetitious act like going to the bathroom does not count, they aren’t even thinking about what they did in the past! At this stage of a puppy’s life, their memory is very poor.
2. Give him praise when he does the right thing. It’s so easy to get into the habit of yelling “No, No, No!” when he is caught in the midst of using the wrong area that we often forget to love on them for doing the right thing. Show him that he’s a good boy!

Housetraining Methods

1. Indoor training – This method is useful if you live in a home or apartment that does not have access to a yard area. I caution you that this method will encourage him to potty inside when your overall goal is to get him to go outside. If you have to use this alternative method then get some pre-treated pads and put down; these pads are scented with a chemical that attracts your puppy to potty in this area. Anytime your puppy goes into his “pre-potty sniffing pattern,” calmly pick him up without saying anything to him and carry him over to the pad – the energy you bring to your puppy when going to pick him up needs to be calm but assertive because your “freaking out” energy will make him potty out of nervousness. Praise him after he goes in the right area.Remember, I don’t recommend this method unless you live in a high-rise apartment or home that makes it difficult to get your puppy to a grassy area to potty.
2. The all-time favorite “Crate Training”: The first thing you need to do is buy a cage that’s large enough for a bed and for him to lie down. Anything larger than this will allow him to pee or poop in the corner of the cage which totally defeats the purpose of crate training. This is such a powerful method because dogs do not like peeing/pooping in an area where they have to sleep, such as their bed, because they would be forced to lay in the mess – Yucky for them!

During house training, anytime your puppy is inside your home and can’t be monitored, put him in his crate i.e. taking care of the kids, cooking dinner, at work, or while working from home. The first thing you do when you take your puppy out of his cage or before putting him in his cage is take him outside to potty.

Be Patient when taking him outside to potty before retuning him to his cage, he’ll sniff around for a while but he’s simply looking for his favorite spot. I have a friend that owns a Rat Terrier that loves peeing on his chili pepper plant – that’s his preference, LOL J. No food and water goes in the crate only a blanket and chew toy to keep him occupied. Put him in his crate overnight and as your trust in him grows, leave him out for longer periods of time.

Valuable tips:

1. Buy the right size cage – He only needs enough space for a bed and to lie down so he doesn’t make a habit of peeing/pooping in his cage.
2. Use scented pads to attract your puppy to the same area to potty if you live in an area where there’s no access to a grassy area. As your puppy gets used to using the pad, move it closer and closer to an outside area.
3. Crate training teaches your puppy more than not to potty in the house – it teaches them self-control and that they can hold it until the right time comes.
4. Purchase a cage that will allow you to modify it as the puppy grows so that you can avoid buying another cage when he gets bigger – there are models that have dividers that can be inserted to modify the cage size.
5. When taking your pup outside to potty, don’t play with him. The trip outside has a specific reason – to potty – and bring him back in immediately.
6. Use verbal cues when he shows pre-potty signs like, “Potty? Want to go potty?” or “Outside?” – this teaches him that his “pre-potty behavior” is associated with “Potty or Outside?”. He’ll most likely dance and prance near the back door when you use these verbal cues.
7. Remember to praise him/her with “Good boy or Good girl!!” when he/she finishes
8. Put your puppy on a consistent feeding schedule so you can predict when he/she will need to potty. They almost always go right after waking up and shortly after eating.

Once again the key here is to be patient and stay calm. Your energy affects your dog – Cesar Milan is famous for stating that. If you find this helpful, please tweet, post to facebook, and share with others!

Many veterinarians are now using acupuncture to treat animals not only for pain but for diseases such as allergies, seizures and reproductive problems. Watch the video and let us know what your thoughts are and whether or not you’d be open to using acupuncture.

I came across this video and was amazed at how big this rodent is…check out the video for yourself!

What kinds of holiday plants are toxic to my pet?
Aloe , Apple (Includes crabapples) , Apricot , Australian Pine (Norfolk Pine, House Pine, Norfolk Island Pine) , Azalea (Rosebay, Rhododendron) , Baby’s Breath (Maidens Breath) , Caladium (Malanga, Elephant’s Ears), Carnation , Chamomile , Cherry , Christmas Rose, Chrysanthemum (Daisy, Mum), Elephant Ears (Caladium, Malanga) , English Ivy (Branching Ivy), English Yew (Western Yew), Fig, Fire Lily, Garlic, Holly (English Holly, European Holly, Oregon Holly, Inkberry, Winterberry, American Holly), Lemon , Lime , Macadamia Nut (Australia Nut, Queensland Nut), Mistletoe “American”, Onion , Orange, Peach, Plum , Rhubarb (Pie Plant), Grapes (including raisins), Tobacco , Yew Pine (buddhist pine), Amaryllis, Cyclamen (Sowbread), Kalanchoe (Mother-In-Law-Plant), Narcissus (Daffodil), Pigtail Plant (Flamingo Plant), Poinsettia

What signs do I need to look out for if my pet ingests any of these plants?
If your pet ingests any of these toxic plants, it is in your pet’s best medical interest to contact your veterinarian immediately. Signs to watch out for include, but are not limited to: vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, stumbling (ataxia) and unusual behavior. Some of the above plants listed can cause irreversible damage to your pet’s organ function, if left untreated. If there is any doubt, contact a veterinarian as soon as possible after ingestion.

Is antifreeze toxic to my pet?

As winter approaches, many people will “winterize” their automobiles, including a change of antifreeze. Take care to keep both new and used antifreeze in a sealed container, out of reach of pets. Clean up any spills of antifreeze on driveways and other hard surfaces. Dogs and cats find antifreeze quite tasty and if they find antifreeze they’ll drink it. Antifreeze is extremely toxic causing kidney failure that is often fatal in just a few days.

Very small amounts of antifreeze can be fatal. If a cat walks through a puddle of antifreeze and then licks its paws, it can ingest enough antifreeze to cause death.  About five tablespoons can kill a medium sized dog. If you see your pet drinking antifreeze, or are at all suspicious that your pet may have had access to antifreeze, contact a veterinarian immediately.

Signs of antifreeze poisoning depend upon the time after ingestion. In the first few hours after ingestion the pet may be depressed and staggering and may have seizures. They may drink lots of water, urinate large amounts and vomit. The pet may appear to feel better but in a day or two get much worse as the kidneys fail. Signs of kidney failure include depression and vomiting. The amount of urine they pass will often decrease to a very small amount.

The diagnosis of antifreeze poisoning is made by blood and urine tests although some of these tests become negative by the time kidney failure develops. Antifreeze poisoning should be considered in any free-roaming dog or cat with consistent signs. The treatment for antifreeze poisoning needs to be started as soon after ingestion as possible, to be effective. The earlier treatment is started, the greater the chance of survival.  Once kidney failure develops, most animals will die.

How can I prevent antifreeze poisoning?

• keep new and used antifreeze in a sealed, leak proof container
• take used antifreeze to a service station for disposal – don’t pour it on the ground
• check driveways for puddles of antifreeze that may have leaked from the car
• consider the use of alternative antifreeze products that are less toxic to pets
• if antifreeze is placed in toilets make sure the lid is down and the door to the room is closed

Can my animal catch cancer from another animal or transmit it?

For the vast majority of cases the answer to both questions is “No!”

Animals can be infected with viruses or other microorganisms some of which cause cancer. Some are infected from their mother before or at birth but infection can also be acquired by contact with other animals. Some can be transmitted through bites of ‘vectors’ such as fleas or ticks. Feline leukemia virus, for example, can cause cancers of the blood and lymphoid system in cats. The virus is occasionally transmitted from an infected queen to her kittens before birth but is more commonly acquired from close contact with infected cats that shed the virus in saliva, urine and feces. If your cat is infected, it can pass the infection to other cats.

How does cancer affect my pet?

The most obvious effect of most cancers is an enlarging lump, but most lumps are not malignant. This lump may ulcerate, bleed or have physical effects (pressure, displacement, etc.) on the surrounding tissues. Benign cancers only enlarge locally by smooth expansion but malignant cancers may invade regionally with tentacles (i.e. “cancer the crab”).  In fact, we use these differences in growth habit to help decide if the cancer is benign or malignant spreading widely through the body. Widespread distribution of a cancer occurs when cancer cells break away from the original tumor and seed in body cavities (such as the pleural cavity of the chest or peritoneal cavity of the abdomen) and when cancer cells invade the blood. The cells may then be carried to distant tissues where the cells lodge and start new tumor masses (metastases).

Weight loss due to loss of body fat and muscle is common in malignant cancer and unexplained weight loss can be an important sign.  A few tumors induce clinical signs that are not readily explained by local or distant spread of the tumors. These are known as paraneoplastic syndromes. Some syndromes are due to abnormal hormone production by the cancer. (Hormones are internal secretions that pass into the blood and stimulate other organs to action.) Examples of paraneoplastic signs and symptoms include loss of hair, increase or decrease in blood glucose, and increased blood calcium levels.

How is cancer diagnosed?

Cancer is often suspected from clinical signs (a lump, loss of appetite and energy, loss of weight for example). X-rays may be useful in detecting internal tumors, including metastases. Blood tests can help indicate some tumors. In order to identify most tumor types, it is necessary to obtain a sample of the tumor itself.   Surgical invasion may be needed such as needle aspiration, punch biopsy, full excision or exploratory surgery. The simplest approach in many cases is the aspiration (suction removal) of tumor cells with a syringe and needle.  It does not require general anesthesia or surgery. Microscopic examination of the cells obtained is called cytology.

A more reliable test however, requires surgical removal of a tissue sample under anesthesia. The preparation and microscopic examination of stained sections from the removed tissue is called histopathology. This is done at a specialized laboratory where the slides are examined by a veterinary pathologist.

The histopathology report typically includes words that indicate whether a tumor is ‘benign’ (non-spreading, local growth) or ‘malignant’ (capable of spreading to other body sites). Malignancy is often shown by tumor names ending in “carcinoma” or “sarcoma”. These, together with the origin or type of tumor, the grade (degree of resemblance to normal cells) and stage (how far it has spread) indicate how the cancer is likely to behave.

The veterinary pathologist usually adds a prognosis (what will probably happen). This may include a prediction about the probability of local recurrence or metastasis (distant spread).

Can cancer disappear without treatment?

Cancer rarely disappears without treatment but as development is a multi-step process, it may stop at any stage. The body’s immune system can kill cancer cells using mechanisms that specifically target tumor cells that are recognized as “foreign”. These mechanisms include immune system cells such as cytotoxic lymphocytes and macrophages and antibody production. Not all tumors are recognized as foreign and even when they are, the immune system is rarely 100% effective in eliminating the cancer. Rarely, loss of blood supply to a cancer, by pressure on its own supply for example, will result in tumor cell death but the dead tissue will probably need surgical removal.

What is cancer?

Cancer is a disorder of cell growth (uncontrolled cell division) that results in an abnormal mass of tissue (tumor) without a purpose. The growth exceeds that of normal tissue, is un-coordinated and persists after the cause has gone. There are many different types of cancers.

A few definitions

“Cancer” is the Latin word for ‘crab’ and the name describes the way the cancer adheres to adjacent tissues. Cancer is also known as “malignant neoplasia”. Malignant means “life threatening”, and neoplasia is Greek for “new growth”. The new growth is called a “neoplasm”. Not all neoplasms are malignant cancers.  In fact, most are not life-threatening and are referred to as “benign”. The word “tumor” is Latin for a swelling. Tumors include swellings that are due to non-neoplastic causes. “Oncology” is the study of neoplasia.

Note that in strict medical terminology ‘cancer’ is used for malignant neoplasia but that in general usage it is often used as a broader term encompassing benign and malignant tumors.

What causes cancer?

Cancer is essentially the result of non-lethal genetic damage to cells (mutations in the DNA genome). Causes of such mutations include radiation, chemicals, hormones and infections. Some damage to cellular DNA is a daily “wear and tear” event but all mammals have many safeguards to prevent or repair such damage.  Nonetheless, such protective mechanisms are not flawless. In some individuals there are even defects in such defences, resulting in a higher than expected prevalence of cancer.  Some of those defects in protection can be inherited and in purebred dogs this can result in inherited predispositions to cancer development.  In other instances it is excessive injury. The mutated DNA upsets the normal regulation of cell growth allowing uncontrolled and careless growth of the “altered” cells that no longer obey the rules governing coordinated cell activity.

Complete Blood Count -
This simple blood test analyzes the cellular components in the bloodstream. These include red blood cells, which carry oxygen to the tissues, white blood cells, which fight infection and respond to inflammation, and platelets, which help the blood to clot. The CBC provides details about the number, size, and shape of the various cells types, and identifies the presence of any abnormal cells.

Biochemistry Profile -
This is a series of tests performed on serum, which is a component of blood. These tests provide information about how well the various organs of the body are working, and help to detect the presence of some metabolic diseases. There are tests to assess the liver, kidneys, and pancreas, tests to identify the presence of diabetes, and so on. If minor abnormalities are found on the biochemistry profile, the veterinarian may simply request that you repeat the tests at a later time; depending on the abnormality, this may be in a few days, a few weeks, or a few months. In some cases, a more extensive diagnostic workup may be recommended, including an expanded biochemistry profile, or special tests and/or imaging (x-rays, ultrasound).

Urinalysis -
A Urinalysis involves an analysis of the chemical components in urine, as well as a microscopic examination of the cells and solid material present in urine. A Urinalysis provides information about how well the kidneys are working, identifies the presence of inflammation or infection, and may detect the presence of underlying metabolic disease such as diabetes. A Urinalysis is necessary for a complete assessment of the urinary system. It should be performed routinely as part of wellness testing, and is particularly important in the geriatric dog because of the increased rate of kidney disease in the older pet.

Thyroid testing -
The thyroid gland is like a “thermostat”, and it “sets” the metabolic rate of the whole body. The most common thyroid disease in the dog is called hypothyroidism, which occurs when the thyroid does not produce adequate amounts of thyroid hormone. The function of the thyroid gland should be tested if your dog exhibits unexplained weight gain, lack of energy, recurring skin or ear infections, hair loss on the body and tail, or has high cholesterol levels in the blood.

Summary
Wellness testing is a simple and effective way of monitoring your older dog’s health. Early detection and correction of medical problems help to ensure that your pet will be healthy and active for as long as possible.

What is wellness testing?
Wellness testing is the term given to a group of tests that are performed specifically to detect signs of early disease in a pet that is apparently healthy.

Why do wellness testing?
Pets cannot tell you how they are feeling, and as a result disease may be present before you are aware of it. If a disease or condition can be detected before a pet shows signs of illness, we can often take steps to manage or correct the problem before irreparable damage is done. Wellness testing is particularly important in the geriatric pet, since there is a greater chance that underlying disease may be present.

When is wellness testing done?
Wellness testing is usually done once yearly, and many pet owners combine wellness testing with their annual visit to the veterinarian for their dog’s physical examination, vaccination, or heartworm testing. Your veterinarian may recommend more frequent testing depending on your dog’s age or specific health concerns. Monitoring your pet’s health status on a regular basis makes it easier for the veterinarian to detect minor changes that signal the onset of disease.

What is involved in wellness testing?
There are four main categories of wellness testing for the dog: complete blood count (CBC), biochemistry profile, urinalysis, and thyroid hormone testing. Within each category, the veterinarian will determine how extensive the testing should be. In younger dogs without noticeable health complaints, relatively simple testing may be adequate. However, in the geriatric dog, more comprehensive testing is recommended.

Stay tuned to our next post to learn more about the different types of wellness testing.

What is tartar and can it be prevented?

The mouth of all mammals is home to thousands of bacteria. Many of these bacteria will breed on the surfaces of the tooth and form an invisible layer called plaque or biofilm. Some of this is removed naturally by the pet’s tongue and chewing habits but if allowed to remain on the tooth surface, the plaque thickens, becomes mineralized and is then visible as tartar and ultimately calculus. The tartar presses on the gums, which recede, causing inflammation and infection called gingivitis. The gums continue to recede until ultimately the tooth socket is infected and the tooth is lost.

As the oral infection increases, tonsillitis and pharyngitis can also occur. In addition, the bacteria are absorbed into the blood stream and can be carried to other organs. Heart valve infections (endocardiosis or endocarditis), kidney and liver problems are frequently caused by “bad teeth”.

Can tartar be prevented?

Plaque becomes mineralized in some pets much quicker than in others. Special chew toys as well as feeding specifically-formulated dental diets may help reduce tartar build up, as does regular home care such as tooth brushing. Today there are many products designed to reduce tartar in our pets.  We recommend the use of Hills Prescription Diet T/D to be given as treats (3-4 daily).  We consider them “edible toothbrushes.”  These kibble treats are instrumental in keeping plaque and dental tartar from re-accumulating after dental cleaning.

Will feeding dry food remove tartar?

Once tartar has formed it will be necessary to remove it by professional scaling and polishing under anesthesia. Pet food manufacturers have recently developed new dental diets that can help reduce the formation of plaque and tartar in your pet.  We recommend T/D by Hills Science Diet for severe cases.

What is involved with a dental cleaning for my pet?

The goal of dental scaling and polishing is to remove the tartar and invisible plaque.  Sometimes antibiotic treatment is instituted before a full dental prophylaxis is carried out.

Tooth scaling will be performed using both hand scalers and ultrasonic cleaning equipment to remove tartar both above and below the gum line. The tartar beneath the gum line causes the most significant gum recession. The teeth are then polished in order to help prevent subsequent plaque build-up. It may be necessary to carry out other procedures such as extractions at the same time. Special applications such as fluoride, antibiotic preparations and cleaning compounds may be indicated to decrease tooth sensitivity, strengthen enamel and reduce plaque accumulation and bacterial infection.

How can I prevent tartar accumulation after the procedure?

Plaque and tartar begin forming in as little as six hours after your pet’s dental cleaning. A home dental care program is a must for all pets. T/D diet or Oravet are two products we recommend to keep the re-accumulation of tartar and plaque from forming.

Can I use human toothpaste?

Human dentifrice or toothpaste should not be used in pets. These are foaming products and are not meant to be swallowed. Additionally, many types of human toothpaste contain sodium, which may cause problems in some pets.

I was unaware that pets have dental problems. Is it common?

Dental disease is the most common disease in pets. Over 68% of all pets over the age of three have some form of periodontal or dental disease. Most pets will show few signs of dental disease. It is up to the pet’s family and veterinarian to uncover this hidden and often painful condition.

Are dental problems the same in pets and people?

No. In man the most common problem is tooth decay which, due to the loss of calcium from the enamel, results in painful, infected cavities. In the pet tooth decay represents less than 10% of all dental problems. The most common dental problems seen in pets are caused by periodontal disease.

What is periodontal disease?

Periodontal disease is a term used to describe inflammation or infection of the tissues surrounding the tooth. Accumulation of tartar and calculus on the teeth contributes to gum recession around the base of the tooth. Infection soon follows and the gums recede, exposing sensitive unprotected tooth surfaces. Untreated infection then spreads into the tooth socket and ultimately the tooth loosens and is lost.

Is periodontal disease very common?

It is estimated that over 68% of pets over three years old suffer from some degree of periodontitis, making it by far the most common canine disease.